In one of the biggest industries in the world – fashion and textiles – nothing is ever more emotional. Everything that is made under the umbrella of the big fashion organizations has not only styles but also has more strategic thoughts than looks. One of the latest stories in the fashion world, which may seem trivial to some, is: “Fashion designer John Galliano will create an exclusive collection for Zara. The agreement between the two groups will last for two years.”
Many may be thinking, “So what? We’ve seen designers collaborate with fashion brands before.” But to fully understand the importance of this interaction, a certain meaning is important.
A controversial ad
One of the parties to the alliance is Zaraflagship brand of the Spanish Inditex group. Many may remember Zara’s shocking advertisement in 2023. During one of the deadliest periods of Israel’s operation in Gaza, when the world’s media reported images of Palestinian children wrapped in cloths, Zara released an advertising campaign that bore a disturbing resemblance to the events of death and destruction in Gaza.
Promotional images for Zara’s jacket collection, published earlier this month on its official social media channels, showed mannequins wrapped in plastic amid rubble and torn plaster. Another photo showed a model holding a mannequin wrapped in a white sheet, which many social media users said resembled a corpse. The ad shocked viewers around the world.
After the uproar, Zara pulled the campaign and issued a statement to CNN, saying the campaign “presents a series of unfinished sculptures in the gallery and is designed to showcase handmade clothing in an artistic way.”
During the Israeli military operation throughout the region, Zara also made headlines for allegedly supporting the election campaign of Israel’s Minister of National Security, Ben-Gvir. At a time when this brand was facing world boycotts, it suddenly announced a collaboration with the famous designer – John Galliano, who for a long time was not in the public eye.
It has been canceled in the fashion world
John Galliano was, by any measure, one of the most talented designers in the history of fashion. Until 2011, his work inspired people around the world. His collections as creative director of the French fashion house Dior were theatrical, groundbreaking and mesmerizing. Even today, his designs from the Dior era serve as a source of inspiration for Dior and many other designers.
However, over the past 15 years, his career has changed dramatically. A video recorded in a Paris bar showed Galliano making racist remarks to a Jewish couple while he was drinking. He was then taken to court and his contract with Dior was terminated.
The pictures, which included Galliano saying, “I love Hitler” and supporting the Nazis’ actions against the Jews, caused an uproar. Jewish Hollywood stars publicly denounced him, declaring that a genocidal supporter had no place at Dior or the fashion industry. After the scandal, Galliano was almost elected; he was shunned by almost the entire fashion world.
Amazing comeback
The change came only after Israel’s latest high-profile crackdown on border crossings. Suddenly, Galliano’s Dior-era designs became popular among Hollywood stars, with his early 2000s collections selling in vintage stores and celebrities wearing his creations on red carpets.
Then Zara, under the pressure of the youth of the world, announced a special collection with Galliano, attracting immediate attention. In just 15 years, the world and the fashion industry had changed a lot. Even fashion magazines and newspapers that have been strongly critical of Galliano have reported the collaboration in a neutral, matter-of-fact tone.
After a brief stint with another fashion house, Maison Martin Margiela, Galliano was absent from major fashion organizations for two years. Her collaboration with Zara marks a symbolic return to the world fashion stage.
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