The Lyst Index, for the uninitiated, is a ranking of the most sought-after fashion brands and products. Last year, every quarter without fail, Cos appeared in the top 10 brands in the world, holding its own alongside the likes of Miu Miu, Loewe and The Row. This is an indication of the unique position that the London brand has created for itself: it has managed to transcend its “high street” identity to become a flagship based on major luxury labels. To prove its power, Cos drew a crowd that included Alexander Skarsgård, Emma Roberts and Squid Games Park Gyuyoung to Seoul, where it revealed its spring / summer 2026 collection last week.
“We felt that with this collection, Seoul would be a great match,” says Karin Gustafsson, Cos’ design director, when I spoke to her after the show. “Of course, the city itself is amazing – from the people here to all the historical and cultural aspects – but it also feels like it belongs to the past and has a sense of newness at the same time.”
This is, says Gustafsson, the essence of his approach to Cos: “I think it is very important to always understand the crafts from the past – the history of art and music etc. – but also, at the same time, we take a lot of inspiration from what is happening around us.” This may help explain Cos’s steep rise to the top; the brand offers clothes that feel at once timeless and modern, full of Scandi flair – Gustafsson is Swedish, after all, and the brand belongs to the H&M Group.
This was evident as in spring/summer, with the collection, at first glance, full of great basics. Although they are certainly pieces that will fit seamlessly into any wardrobe, seeing the clothes up close after the show, what really struck me was the quality of the materials – and the details. Again, this represents Gustafsson’s main goal when designing: “From the beginning, we never set out to do anything other than create timeless looks and fashion that will last beyond the seasons. [the rest of the] high street, and maybe even pre-eminence [labels]somehow. We really work hard to create the highest quality level possible for the price we offer. I think that’s the key.”
The main influences on the new Cos offering – now available for purchase – mainly in the 80s and 90s; Gustafsson cites the 1980 film American Gigolo for starters, especially the suits worn by Richard Gere and Lauren Hutton. “There is an effortless beauty. And we named the collection “Cinematic Beauty” because we really wanted that kind of feeling in the character.”
It’s interesting that ’80s influences have been prominent in the designer’s collections for several seasons now, and remained strong in the recent autumn/winter 2026 shows. Why does Gustafsson think it offers such a wealth of inspiration now? “It’s hard to say. We started this [collection] before the sad news of Giorgio Armani’s death, a long time ago. But I think the movement had started before that. Maybe it’s a sense of comfort – that tone gives a confident silhouette, but it’s also soft with a strong shoulder.”
There’s, as you’d expect from any Cos collection, plenty of customization, although it’s bigger and – to borrow Gustafsson’s words – easier than ever. Soft fabrics, lend themselves to casual wear; even trench coats are made from a type of linen-wool, giving them more movement and fluidity. “There’s a hint of power dressing,” Gustafsson says, “but in a very understated way.” There is also a new use of fabrics: leather and silk have a calming effect, while what looked like a denim shirt and jeans are actually made of 100% silk.
As the designer says, sometimes “the feeling of the fabric is very important, sometimes more important than the actual shape,” which is another thing that makes Cos different from many of its contemporaries. The fact that so many pieces are under £100 but still have a high-end feel is invaluable in such a crowded market – and another reason why these clothes have such timeless appeal.
There are many things we haven’t done, and there are many things I would like to do,” Gustafsson says. “What should we say? I mean, I love our beauty – it’s very close to my heart, and I’d love to see it happen in a new way.”
9 of the best pieces to buy from Cos’ new spring/summer collection:
Cos Paneled textured leather T-shirt
Cos linen-wool trench coat
Cos asymmetric silk pleated gown
Cos denim-effect silk shirt
Cos denim-effect silk midi skirt
Cos layered bandeau dress
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